As a former mechanic, I always recommend tinkering with a bicycle yourself. A bicycle is one of my favorite mechanisms precisely because it's so wonderfully simple to build, and you can observe and evaluate the operation of almost all components from the outside. You don't need a pit or a lift like you would with a car, nor do you have to remove dozens of covers, panels, and other parts covering the faulty part. Of course, this doesn't mean that anyone with a passing grasp of DIY will automatically become a master bicycle mechanic. Experience and knowledge of components play a role, and wheels are a separate topic – if you're a professional builder, you get a feel for certain things over time and know what to expect from specific rims or spokes.
However, many adjustments and maintenance tasks are relatively simple and logical, and you can learn them on your own or with the help of guides. However, it's worth equipping yourself with the right bicycle tools for at least two reasons. First, you'll significantly reduce the risk of damaging something. Yes, you can do a lot of things with pliers and a wrench, but your bike won't be happy with damaged nuts, nipples, and frayed housings. Second, time is of the essence—special tools are simply more convenient and accurate. Learn what I recommend having in your home bike workshop.
Basic keys
I've already written a separate article about bicycle wrenches, so I won't go into too much detail here. First and foremost, open-end and allen wrenches. If your wheels are secured with nuts, you'll likely need a 15mm wrench. Sizes 6, 8, 10, 13, and 14mm are also commonly used on bikes, mainly for accessories and pedals. Sizes 4, 5, and 6mm are mandatory, but smaller sizes are also useful, for example, for brake pads. In some cases, Torx bits are also necessary—usually T25, for example, for disc brake bolts. A good Phillips screwdriver will also come in handy. Avoid universal all-in-one open-end wrenches and "French" wrenches. The former usually lack leverage, the latter are imprecise and damage the nuts. However, a pocket knife with allen wrenches is perfectly fine. It's also worth adding a pedal wrench with a long lever to the set. It will save you a lot of swearing.
Tube and tubeless bicycle tools
Yes, a bicycle tool kit, strictly speaking, should include, above all, good tire levers. I've broken more than one, and I know what I'm talking about – levers shouldn't be small or subtle. The best ones are made of hard plastic or synthetic material. My favorite is the Park Tool TL-4.2C. Not only are they durable, but they also have a convenient handle that allows you to hook the lever onto a spoke. I definitely don't recommend metal models, though. They can easily cut the rim or puncture the inner tube. And if you break the TL-4.2C at home, you're doing something wrong and need to consider a different technique. It's also good to have a third spare lever. It's quite rare to use three at once (at least I don't), but it's always good to have a spare in case your main one breaks.
Let's not forget about a workshop pump. A floor pump is a must. One with a pressure gauge is a must. I recommend ones with a long stroke. You'll need less force and don't have to bend down too much. If you have bikes with different valves, a two-hole valve stem is a must – the interchangeable ones are annoying, and you always end up with the wrong one. If you want to do tubeless at home (and it's worth it), a compressor and a gauge stem are the best choice. There are also pumps with a pressure reservoir that shoots the tire in. This is a good solution for an apartment, though obviously a bit of a compromise. Tubeless tires require sealant (it's a good idea to top it up periodically), and a friction-reducing fluid is also useful, which will help the tire fit more easily. Schwalbe Easy Fit is very good, but soapy water will also do the trick.
We service wheels
A bicycle tool kit must include wheel tools – they're the most important part of your bike. If you have the most popular ball-bearing hubs, you'll need special locking wrenches. Avoid cheap stamped sheet metal ones with serrated slots for two sizes. One wrench is for one nut/cone size. Tweezers for removing and inserting the balls will also make life easier. The design of sealed-bearing hubs varies greatly; usually, a suitable open-end or Allen key will suffice. However, remember that some brands, like the "brilliant" Mavic, require special tools for this! If you want to replace the bearings, you'll need a bearing punch and a press, but in a home workshop, that's more of a triumph of style over substance. You can, of course, do it yourself, but I wouldn't recommend it – it can easily damage the hub.
Centering
If you're not afraid of truing (and it's easy to screw things up at first), it's best not to complicate your work with poor tools. Don't even think about using pliers—you'll crush the nipples. A cheap universal wrench will suffice for starters; if you want to do it more often, it's better to buy one in the right size for your nipples for a few dozen złoty. For flat spokes, you'll need a plastic holder to prevent them from turning (no, not pliers). Minor adjustments can be made to the frame using cable ties; for regular service, it's worth buying a cheap wheel truing stand. If you're thinking about lacing your wheels, a tension gauge will also be useful—the cheapest one from Park Tool will be perfect. For individual lacing jobs, skip nipple screwdrivers, nipple boxes, and other aids—they're nice, but they only help save time in a professional workshop. For an amateur, they're a waste of money.
Bicycle tools for the drive
First and foremost, cleaning tools. You've probably seen or have seen fancy chain and cassette brushes and washers. They're hopeless. A regular toothbrush beats them hands down. For a chain, you can combine two to scrub it from top to bottom. For a thorough clean, a jar of white spirit and you're good to go.
If you want to get into full drivetrain maintenance, you'll need to invest in a few tools. First and foremost, a chain breaker. Pliers for loosening and tightening the chain are also handy, but you can get by without them. A cassette wrench and a whip. Both are durable and long – the cheap ones are easily bent, and a good lever is useful. To remove a square or splined crankset, you'll also need a suitable puller and sometimes a thin-walled 14mm socket wrench to unscrew the bolt holding the crankset. And while we're at it, it's also worth cleaning the bottom bracket – the wrench depends on the specific standard; the most popular one for square bottom brackets almost always looks the same, but it's worth getting a slightly better one. The cheapest ones are prone to break, and you don't want to rush out to the bike with all the momentum invested in unscrewing it (I know from experience).
Wires - pliers are not enough here
These are the most often neglected bicycle tools. The result is frayed cables and crookedly cut housings. This affects the quality of derailleurs and brakes. A good pair of cable cutters solves the problem – the cable can't unravel after cutting and the housing can't flatten. Add crimped ends, and you're done. I also recommend making a sharpened "gouge" from a spoke to pry open the plastic interior of the housings, which tend to close when cut. This will make it easier to insert the cable.
Bicycle tools with hydraulics
Contrary to popular belief, hydraulics aren't a problem (unless it's a damn Avid or an older SRAM). You'll need a bleeding kit designed for the specific brand or model and the correct oil (this is incredibly important – we don't use substitutes or, even less, cheap ideas from online forums). Plus, standard open-end wrenches or ampoules, depending on the model, and you're good to go. When installing new inserts, you can easily do without a press – a vise adapter or pliers and a hammer will suffice. A pad spreader is a useful tool, though.
Shock absorber service tools
If you want to tinker with your shock absorber yourself, remember that there's not much room for guerrilla work, especially with Fox products, which are very sensitive to inaccuracies and low-quality tools. For basic servicing (without disassembling the damper), standard Allen and socket wrenches, a rubber mallet, and a regular hammer are usually sufficient. It's also best to have a torque wrench, although I know from experience that you can safely tighten the shock absorber by feel. Circlip pliers and tweezers for small parts will be helpful. I guess I don't need to mention a shock pump for air models? Also, a dust seal driver, oil syringes, a container for old oil, and thick grease (I recommend Military Grease). And speaking of grease and oils...
Chemistry is also a bicycle tool
Just like with brakes, for shock absorbers, we stick to oils that meet the manufacturer's specifications, preferably original equipment. And what's worth having for general maintenance? First and foremost, a good aerosol mechanism cleaner. Car brake cleaners (Berner is great) are ideal for quickly cleaning the chain, brake discs, or rinsing bearing balls. Just remember that these products are highly penetrating and flush out grease, so they shouldn't get into bearings you're not servicing. For example, when cleaning a cassette, be careful with the freehub body.
For general bike cleaning, I recommend regular dishwashing liquid diluted with water in a plant sprayer. Simple, cheap, and effective. A bicycle tool kit should also include grease, which we apply to the bearings, of course, but also to the threads to prevent them from seizing (especially the bottom bracket and pedals). For home use, the trusty old ŁT-43 will work without a problem. And also some chain oil, preferably two – for wet and dry conditions. You can also add a drop to the housing. If you plan to service the freehub, remember to use special oil as well.
Little and big trifles that make life so much easier
Over time, you'll notice that it's easier to tinker with small mechanisms using tweezers, small screwdrivers, and similar tools. As I mentioned earlier, you can make these from old spokes, for example. By bending them properly, you can also create, for example, a chain holder that will prevent the chain from falling when removing a link. Many people neglect bike stands, and that's a serious mistake. Grabbing the bike by the seatpost or top tube and placing it securely at torso height is a different quality of work and essential if you want to service it regularly. The best ones are bolted to the ground, but a tripod will also work. A chain gauge is also a must. It's simple, and it allows you to change your chain on time and save your cassette. If you have a bike with disc brakes, it's worth investing in a chain straightener.
What else? I love multitools. Ideally, one with just ampoules always in your pocket allows you to handle important parts without having to run around searching for the right size. The handlebar clamp might seem a bit clunky, but in practice, it's great, especially for bleeding brakes.
And one last thing, which might seem unnecessary but is important: rags. It's good to have a supply of clean rags for final cleaning of the frame and parts, and "worse" ones for initial mud removal from the bike and drivetrain. A roll of paper towels is also recommended. And speaking of cleanliness, I recommend nitrile gloves. Cycling lubricants have an exceptional ability to remain on the skin despite repeated washing. Maybe they should use them for tattoos?
Bike tools you shouldn't have at home.
On Allegro and online stores, you'll find plenty of innovative and specialized tools designed to make work easier, but they're completely unnecessary. For example, a plastic spacer for aligning brake pads. Seriously, it's better to trust your eyes. Chain pliers that replace a whip are hideously uncomfortable. I've said before that I like multitools, but that only applies to simple models. All-in-one versions may be fine for a road trip, but they won't be convenient in the workshop.
Professional cycling tools are a separate issue. Do you need a bottom bracket threader, seat tube cutters, or a derailleur hanger straightener at home? Probably not. Instead, it's better to invest in a good stand and the tools you use most often. Start with the basics and buy tools as needed—it's not worth stocking up, especially since cycling standards are constantly changing—who knows what bottom bracket your next bike will have.
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