How to care for your bike's drivetrain in winter? Maintenance and cleaning
Winter isn't the time for soft components. If you ride year-round—and more and more people do—you know that salt, slush, humidity, and sand can kill even the newest drivetrain in a matter of weeks. And if you park your bike outdoors or in a cold, unventilated basement, things accelerate. A drivetrain that ran like clockwork in the summer suddenly starts creaking, grinding, and looking like a museum exhibit. Fortunately, with a little regularity, this can be easily avoided—no need to take everything apart every week.
Winter realities – what happens to the drive?
In winter, several forces simultaneously work on the drivetrain: water, mud, low temperatures, and road chemicals. Road salt doesn't distinguish your bike from a car and is just as effective at eating away at metal, especially when it, along with water, finds its way into the nooks and crannies of the sprockets and derailleurs. Low temperatures also affect the properties of lubricants—they thicken, lose viscosity, or, conversely, wash out too easily. Then there's the moisture from the vapor that the bike picks up even when it's briefly parked. A few rides without cleaning, followed by a week without use, are enough for the sprockets to become tarnished and the chain to dry out.
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Washing – but not like in July
In winter, forget about the classic summer garden wash with a bucket and hose. Washing your bike in winter is more of a surgical procedure than a bath. It's best to use a dedicated drivetrain degreaser (e.g., Muc-Off, Finish Line, Morgan Blue) and spot-clean the chain, derailleur cage, and cassette. Use an old toothbrush, dedicated drivetrain brushes, or even a paper towel. If you have a stand, great. If not, rest your bike firmly and take it easy.
Be careful with pressurized water—leave pressure washers in the garage. They can dislodge grease from bearings and force water into places it shouldn't be. It's better to wipe everything semi-dry, thoroughly clean off any dirt, and only then rinse lightly if necessary. Most importantly, always dry the drivetrain after washing—with a dry cloth or a compressor (if available).
Lubrication - the key to survival
Winter grease is your best friend, but only if you choose it wisely. Summer "dry lube" greases are out of the question—they disappear after a single trip to the mud. In winter, we rely on "wet lube"—a thicker, more viscous grease that sticks to the links despite contact with water. Muc-Off Wet, Squirt Long Lasting, or Shimano PTFE are classics. If you ride a lot, it's worth checking out ceramic or paraffin-based wax greases with anti-corrosion additives.
Apply lubricant to a clean, dry chain, link by link. Then rotate the crank a few times and wipe off any excess—you don't want black gunk all over your bike. And lubricate more often than you would in summer. Every 100–150 km in winter conditions is the absolute minimum. It's better to lubricate more often and less often than too often and too thickly.
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What about derailleurs and cassette?
Don't forget about the rear wheel—it tends to collect dirt from mud and leaves. Every few washes, disassemble it (if possible), clean the rollers, and lubricate the axles. The same goes for the cassette: you don't have to remove it every week, but once a month, it's a good idea to remove the wheel, clean the sprockets with a brush, and if you have the time, disassemble it and check for water buildup around the freehub.
It's also worth checking the cable tension and shifter operation—in winter, they corrode more quickly, the housings become clogged, and the shifters may "pull" with a delay. Sometimes, a spray of WD40 into the housings (with the cable removed) and a few pushes are enough to restore smooth gear shifting.
What if I don't ride in winter?
This also requires attention. If you're storing your bike for a few months, don't leave it dirty. Wash it, dry it, lubricate the chain, and... leave it with a little grease on the sprockets. A slightly wet drivetrain will survive the winter better than one that's completely degreased and dry. It's best if the bike is kept in a dry, well-ventilated place. Don't cover it with plastic wrap—that guarantees condensation and rust. A blanket or a breathable cover is better.
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