With a dog on a bike, how?

This post is inspired by an article that recently appeared in Gazeta Wyborcza (the Tylko Zdrowie supplement of May 26, 2017). It was an interview with Ms. Aneta Awtoniuk (animal behavior specialist and dog school instructor) conducted by Ms. Margit Kossobudzka. There's a very valid warning there: when cycling with a dog, never wear a collar, only a special harness. This reminded me of some very interesting articles that Krzysiek Najder once wrote, based on his many years of experience with dogs and bikes. Below is a longer post with not only recommendations for specific equipment but also very practical advice on properly training your dog to ride with a cyclist.

Cycling with a dog - basic equipment: harness and special leash

A dog and a human on a bicycle are made for each other. For the human, it's a chance to move at a normal canine jog. For the dog, it's an end to trudging along at the idiotic pace of human walking. The result of this marriage in heaven is that the dog learns to run alongside a bicycle very quickly, a skill that later translates to heeling. BEFORE we start learning to ride, however, we need to equip ourselves with the right equipment. Most difficult situations will arise at the very beginning of the learning process. Lacking the right equipment will be dangerous, and at best, completely frustrating for both parties! First and foremost, we should equip ourselves with a harness and a suitable leash. A dog won't be able to get out of a harness, even if it's not very tight. In my opinion, the best harnesses on the market are the Ferplas Ergocomfort. Their only drawback (besides the price, which costs around 100 PLN for a size S in online travel and pet stores) is that the neoprene lower part absorbs water and takes a long time to dry. On the other hand, the neoprene significantly reduces the risk of chafing under the dog's arms, which is quite possible when first learning to ride a bike. The Ergocomfort harness also has very comfortable, adjustable closures and a single leash attachment loop (many harnesses have a double leash attachment loop, which is difficult to hit with a carabiner when you're tying your dog off the bike).

Just not in hand

A hand-held leash is an invitation to disaster on a bike. It should be attached to your belt (not to the bike or worn over your shoulder) – this gives you hands-free access and provides early warning if your dog strays from the rear wheel. It should also have a built-in shock absorber, as dogs can pull quite hard! However, if the leash is attached to your belt, the tugs may be uncomfortable, but they won't cause you to lose your balance. I've been using the RuffWear Roamer leash, size S, for years – it's very comfortable and has a relatively lightweight carabiner that can be closed and opened with one hand. You can buy it in Polish online stores for around 150 PLN. That's a lot, but it's well-made, durable, and exceptionally functional. It can be unclipped with one hand and quickly attached to a bike or a post if you need to leave your dog somewhere. It also has a handle below the rubber shock absorber if you need to keep your dog close. It's no bigger or heavier than a regular leash and can be used off the bike.

Learning to behave with a dog on a bike in two days

A dog running alongside a bike only needs to master a few simple maneuvers. This includes always running on the same side, stopping at a stop, and moving closer to the cyclist to unclip and re-clip. The basic training may take two days, then it's just about honing the skills. Running alongside a bicycle is not much different from walking alongside a bicycle, and the training process is similar. The dog cannot run ahead of us or pull backwards, and should always stay on one side, the left for right-handed owners. For the first time, to make it easier, we can ride alongside a wall or parapet, and each time the dog tries to run in front of us, lightly block its path and say clearly "uh-uh" (or "no," but in practice, it's better to use one syllable). A reasonably intelligent dog will figure it out almost immediately. The next time, the parapet won't be necessary, and the best practice is then to do turns and figure-eights. The irregular paths of Saski Park and its central, very wide avenue are perfect for this. The park is almost empty in the mornings and late evenings. Lagging behind the bike will occur primarily at the very beginning. Then, in moments of uncertainty and when the dog is tired or bored. Simply lagging behind won't be a major problem unless you're climbing a hill. In that case, a slightly lagging dog is just another burden to overcome. However, it's important to understand this – a slightly taut leash acts like autopilot, allowing you to focus on more interesting things than keeping an eye on the cyclist's rear leg.

From left to right

Getting connected to the rear wheel is a bit more difficult. With a normal-length leash (mine is 1 meter + 40 cm of stretch), it's more than possible. If the dog tries to do this, we need to quickly brake and block the rear wheel from moving backward. We can also say "e-ee" or "no," preferably while simultaneously pulling the leash forward. Unfortunately, this requires a bit of vigilance, especially if we have a rear fender on, as the leash tends to get stuck there. After a while (i.e., after a few weeks of riding), the dog will become accustomed to one side, and even a quiet "e-ee" will cause him to immediately return to it if he happens to be staring at an interesting friend. If every time we stop, we pull the leash very lightly and say "stop" (a word dogs can distinguish quite well), we will soon have a companion who stops immediately when they say "stop", which is very useful in city traffic. Very often, we'll be attaching and detaching the dog while standing astride the shoulder. It's great to teach the dog to move closer, as he won't always be sitting or standing within arm's reach. I trained him to do this by putting on a harness before going out, as the dog is then particularly motivated to cooperate. The word "closer" itself is a bit of a complicated sound, but if we help ourselves by moving our hands toward each other (dogs are much better at distinguishing gestures from words), he'll quickly understand that the harness and the prospect of the walk depend on how effectively he moves closer to us, and he'll do the same with the bike.

Additional online lessons - cycling with a dog

Since a dog's cycling skills aren't much different from their walking skills, I recommend Zak Georg, a master of dog training tricks. His channel on YouTube.com is a treasure trove of fantastic tips. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZzFRKsgVMhGTxffpzgTJlQ Pay particular attention to learning to heel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIdeT5S9u4Y And here is a text about cycling from a dog's point of view - very nice, although not very technical: http://blogs.bicycling.com/blogs/everyday-rider/2013/12/19/how-to-bike-with-your-dog/

Bicycle equipment for dogs - additional accessories: light and whistle

If we're riding after dark and letting our dog off leash, we'll need two more pieces of equipment: a light to make sure the dog is visible, and a whistle if we want to see him again. I attach the light to the harness around the dog's neck so it doesn't get in his way too much. I alternate between the blue and red lights—I haven't noticed it making any difference to Chałwa. A relatively inexpensive MacTronic TL-2SL bike light (the one with the rubber loop—about 20 PLN on Allegro) works surprisingly well. A better option, available on Amazon.co.uk for around 70 PLN, is the Egear Guardian travel lamp (some models are sold without a strap, so it's best to check before buying). Your dog can roll around in it and bathe in it – the switch is a simple twist, and the lamp itself is waterproof. However, I don't recommend the Knog lamps, which turn on and off at the most inconvenient times (including in a bag). It's a shame – they're so pretty! If your dog is going to be free to roam, it's also worth getting a good whistle. Yelling loudly across the neighborhood is neither pleasant for others nor effective for you. The best, an ultrasonic Bilik, costs about 25 PLN on Allegro. It's wooden and very lightweight, so you can hold it in your teeth while driving, which is often useful when you need to alert your dog to a distance or quickly call him back.