Bicycle headset - how not to get lost?

Two bearings, responsible for the smooth movement of the handlebar and fork. It would seem that nothing could be simpler. Yet, as with other bicycle parts, the last 30 years have seen a veritable explosion of new standards and categories . All in pursuit of greater stiffness, dirt resistance, and... appearance. Unfortunately, when it comes to replacement, you can feel lost. We use various solutions in our bikes , depending on the intended use of the model. While the sheer number of types can be dizzying, fortunately, the issue isn't as complicated as it seems. Simply classifying bicycle headsets according to three criteria will give you a clear picture. Of course, that's until you find an exception, but that's a separate issue.

Types of bicycle headsets - firstly, the size

Bicycle headset sizes are measured in inches. They are based on the head tube size and the steerer tube diameter. The sizes are:

• 1 inch. The most traditional size, now definitely in retreat. In this size, you'll almost exclusively find classic, bolt-on headsets with external cups. Currently, it's available almost exclusively in retro steel frames, such as our ladies' .
• 1 and 1/8 inches. The basic standard on most modern recreational bikes (city, motocross, trekking, etc.).
• Tapered. Upper cup 1 1/8 inches, lower 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inches. Definitely the dominant standard in sports bikes today. It provides excellent stiffness thanks to the tapered steerer tube, which significantly improves handling.
• Larger ones, meaning 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inches at the top and bottom. Relatively rare, although they are becoming more common.

Classic bicycle headsets vs. A-head headsets

This division refers to the method of eliminating play (although I've also encountered a school of thought that calls all headsets with external cups "classic" headsets). As the name suggests, classic headsets have been around for years. They come in 1-inch and 1 1/8-inch sizes, as external or semi-integrated headsets. They are distinguished by a thread on the upper cup and a nut above it. Combined with a threaded fork steerer tube, this allows them to be locked in place to eliminate play, just like with ball-bearing hubs. The stem is placed inside the steerer tube and has nothing to do with eliminating play. A-head headsets are a newer solution. They come in virtually all configurations (though 1-inch headsets, for example, are rare). Eliminating play is incredibly simple. A threaded spacer is inserted into the steerer tube. The stem is placed on the tube so that its upper edge protrudes slightly above the top. Tightening the spacer from above with a screw compresses the entire assembly so that it moves smoothly but without play. Simply clamp the stem onto the steerer tube to ensure everything is stiff and secure.

Integrated, semi-integrated and external headsets

This classification criterion is based on the location of the bearings. We distinguish:

• External headsets. The most traditional, most often classic. The bearing cups are located outside the head tube. Rarely used today.
• Semi-integrated headsets. The cups are pressed into the head tube, allowing for a larger diameter while still providing a better fit with the fork.
• Integrated headsets. The cups are an integral part of the frame, directly mounting the bearings. This provides the best stiffness, dirt resistance, and lowest weight. Unfortunately, this often leads manufacturers to use non-standard bearings, which are often hard to find in our country. That's why we used readily available bearings in our gravel bike , so you can buy them at any reputable bike shop.
• Mixed. Any combination of the above can occur, most often in the following configuration: semi-integrated top, classic bottom.
  Slim integrated headset and tapered head tube.

What else?

As you can see, the types of bicycle headsets are quite simple when broken down into specific criteria. It's also worth highlighting the differences in bearing types. The most common are ball bearings and sealed bearings (occasionally needle bearings, but that's actually a curiosity). The matter is simple and beyond dispute. Sealed bearings are better :) Of course, as is common in our industry, there are plenty of exceptions and isolated cases. If you have the opportunity to buy a bike with a non-standard headset, make sure you can get one (and if so, do it immediately). It's a piece of junk that can immobilize a bike.