What is it about?

A fixed gear , as we know, doesn't have gears. Therefore, it's worth choosing the single gear ratio we have at our disposal wisely. Acceleration, top speed, and ultimately, comfort will depend on it. Too soft a ratio will cause us to grind our legs and move at a painful pace. Too hard a ratio will cause problems with starting, and worse still, with braking. Considering variables such as the rider's weight and muscle mass, as well as the terrain, the gear ratio for a fixed gear becomes a highly individual matter. However, having some experience in this matter, I'll try to offer a few tips regarding both the gear ratio and the drivetrain inherent in it.

Perfect gear ratio

As I mentioned, it's all individual, but some general guidelines will help us get started. In my experience, for most people in "average" fitness, the optimal fixed-gear ratio falls between 2.8 and 3.2. What does that mean? It's the ratio of the number of teeth in the front chainring to the number of teeth in the rear. For example, 47 teeth in the front and 16 in the rear is 47:16, or roughly 2.94. If you're new to fixed-gear, it's worth starting with a softer gear, but I don't think it's worth going below 2.8. After that, it's trial and error. You'll get it right the second or third time and you'll probably stick with it for a long time. Therefore, it's not worth investing in expensive components at the beginning (but don't overdo it, remember safety) to avoid a significant financial hit. Once you're sure a given set-up is right for you, it's worth investing in a higher-end drivetrain. Many people who ride fixed gear daily (I'm not counting couriers here, as that's a separate issue) end up at around 3.0. And here's where you need to be careful, as a 48:16 setup is very easy to create, but it has a major drawback. Due to the round chainring ratio, each crank revolution involves three equal wheel revolutions. When braking, we set the cranks horizontally, usually in the same position, so in this case, we always brake with the same part of the tire, the so-called skid patch. This causes it to wear out very quickly. Fortunately, there are special calculators that show the number of skid patches depending on the gear ratio. Generally, the more, the better, but three can be considered quite acceptable.

Components

Whether you're still experimenting or have already found your optimal gear ratio, it's important to prioritize safety and ride quality. Changing gears is also a good opportunity to test parts from different manufacturers.

Fixed gear crank

It must be stiff. A standard square bottom bracket is the absolute minimum. With a single-speed drivetrain, all components must be meticulously crafted. Unfortunately, the cheapest cranks and chainrings are often simply crooked, making proper chain tension impossible. In some arm positions, the chain is loose, while in others it's very stretched. It's also worth remembering that the larger the cogs, the longer they will last. The price is weight.

Fixed gear sprocket

It's hard to screw up here, although of course, bent sprockets can be common. This isn't an expensive component, so it's not worth saving 10 złoty and buying something from a scrap yard. Fixed-gear doesn't forgive chain shedding. It's also worth remembering a suitable hub to prevent the sprocket from flying off under braking. You can find more about fixed-gear hubs in this article.

Suitable chain

You can't afford to break it. A track bike is best, but entry-level KMC or Shimano Nexus models are sufficient for a start. Keep in mind that if you upgrade to much larger sprockets, the old chain may be too short to handle! I also recommend our guide on fixie chains, which covers everything in detail. You can find it here .

Fixed gear tensioner

And one last thing, or rather, an addition. The chain tensioner, mounted on the ends of the dropouts, is used to precisely position the rear wheel in the fork so that the chain is properly tensioned. It should form a straight line, but yield gently under finger pressure. Opinions are divided. On the one hand, it makes the process easier, especially with awkward nuts that tend to shift when tightened firmly with a wrench, ruining the job. On the other hand, it looks awful, and proper chain tension isn't that difficult. I'm against it.

A fixed gear bike is a bike for a specific person

Experiment! A fixed gear bike is the best way to create a bike perfectly suited to your needs. What's more, if your needs change, it's easy to modify. And for riding pleasure, nothing beats it!