A bent wheel is a fairly common problem that affects most active cyclists. This damage, once popularly called "wheel buckling," doesn't always require a trip to a bike shop. If the warping is mild, it can be easily repaired at home. This task will require some sensitivity and, above all, patience, but it shouldn't be overly complicated, especially if the wheel has been laced correctly. On our bikes, we do this by hand using a tension gauge, and during the first service, we tighten the spokes, which always need a few miles of riding to settle properly. A bicycle wheel consists of dozens (usually 20 to 36) spokes, the purpose of which is to dissipate the stress generated while riding. Typically, the spokes are divided equally (halfway) into "left" and "right" spokes, depending on the direction of the hub flange they run. They are usually arranged alternately. Spoke tension is responsible for holding the rim in place. It is adjusted via nipples, which are nuts located on the rim. It's important to remember that nipples come in several sizes (most often 3.2 mm, 3.3 mm, and 3.4 mm, but 4.0 mm are also available), and the hub truing wrench used must fit perfectly onto the nipple. Truing a bicycle wheel involves correcting the spoke tension so that the wheel doesn't wobble sideways, up or down, and remains centered. If you want to learn more about braiding rings, visit our post on the topic .

Truing a bicycle wheel

Repair shops use a wheel truing stand to assist with wheel truing – however, such equipment costs around 1000 PLN, making it quite a significant expense for a one-time use. You can also find amateur truing stands on the market for around 200 PLN, but they still seem like an unnecessary expense when you can just as easily truncate a wheel at home without purchasing special equipment. The only thing you definitely need is a wheel nut wrench, tailored to your bike's nipple size. Universal wrenches are available for the three most popular nut sizes, costing around 30 PLN.

How to go about truing bicycle wheels

To begin the repair, place the bike upside down on the ground. Then, deflate the wheels and unscrew the nut securing the valve stem. Remove the tire and inner tube , and then attach the wheel to the frame. First, check that none of the spokes have broken or come loose. If you find a loose spoke, tighten it so that its tension is the same as the adjacent spokes on the same side of the wheel. However, if a spoke is missing, it will need to be reinstalled. If the "figure eight" is caused by a single spoke breaking or being significantly loose, simply replacing/tightening that one spoke will be sufficient. If all the spokes are in place and there's no visible looseness, find the point where the wheel deflects the most from its center. Rotating the wheel will help with this. Brake pads are ideal as reference points for analyzing wheel curvature. Alternatively (e.g., on bikes with disc brakes), you can place pieces of chalk on the forks on both sides of the wheel. As you rotate the wheel, the chalk will leave white marks on the rim in places that deflect to one side or the other. Clothespins or zip ties also work well. For rim brakes, loosen the cable tension adjusting screw (located near the lever), then tighten it to bring the brake pads closer to the rim.

Bicycle wheel truing - practical exercises continued...

The tension should be adjusted where the rim touches the brake pad or the chalk leaves a white mark. Loosen the spokes on the side where the wheel is rubbing and tighten them on the opposite side. It's important to remember that the nipples are mounted "upside down." This means tightening them in the opposite direction to the standard direction, i.e., counterclockwise, and loosening them clockwise. Tightening the spokes must be precise and careful, as the rim will move away from the brake pad in the process. The less wobble the wheel has, the more delicately you need to handle the nipples. It's not advisable to overtighten or unscrew them, as this can de-center the wheel in the opposite direction. Monitor your work continuously, checking the pads with each movement. Once a part is properly aligned, continue checking the wheel. Repeat this process on both sides of the rim to avoid centering the wheel only on one side. During these manipulations, it's possible to create tension in the spoke. To relieve this tension, simply squeeze the spoke near the intersection with another spoke.

Truing bicycle wheels should not be done in a hurry

Once the truing is complete, we can remount the tire. We place one side of the tire on the rim in the recommended direction (as indicated by the manufacturer's arrow on the sidewall). Then, we place the inner tube (only slightly inflated) into the tire and place the other side, applying equal pressure on both sides. Finally, we pump up the wheel – and we're ready to go. How long does wheel truing take? It depends on the runout and your skill level. Initially, you'll probably spend half an hour gently straightening it. In the case of a severely damaged wheel and replacing a few spokes, even an experienced mechanic can spend about an hour finding the sweet spot. However, minor unevenness can sometimes be fixed in a few minutes. Learn how to choose the right tire pressure for your bike

Wheel truing for everyone else, i.e. in our service

If the "runout" exceeds a few millimeters, or you're concerned that you might make matters worse by attempting to repair it, simply take your wheel to a repair shop. Truing a bicycle wheel is inexpensive, starting from 45 PLN, and provides the assurance of a professional repair and (if necessary) further diagnosis of the problem, which could be caused by, for example, rusty spokes.