I've been blogging a lot about gravel bikes lately, and I think it'll soon be time for a little break from the topic. Meanwhile, the topic remains relevant, and according to our data, wheels are a top-of-the-line topic. It's worth exploring, especially since we're talking about non-suspension bikes, which are designed to handle a variety of terrain, so this is paramount. Good gravel wheels must be durable and stiff, though not overly so – the bike shouldn't bounce off the road like a ping-pong ball. So, I'll discuss the most important aspects.
Width is of paramount importance
The whole point of gravel tires is wide tires (compared to road and cyclocross). They allow for comfortable off-road riding. However, for them to perform properly, wide rims are necessary. Otherwise, the so-called lightbulb effect occurs, where a wide tire is mounted on a narrow base. Firstly, this doesn't utilize the full potential of the surface area, and secondly, the tire walls don't function properly. It's easy to get a puncture or a flat, and you also feel less confident in corners. We don't want that. 22mm internal width is the minimum in my opinion, and 24-26mm would be ideal.
Don't forget that gravel wheels come in two diameters
The most common gravel wheel size is 28 inches, but that's not the only option. This is the standard 700mm, just like on road bikes, trekking bikes, many city bikes, and... 29-inch wheels. For this reason, you can opt for MTB rims, although you should pay attention to the tire pressure – you probably won't be able to fit asphalt road tires on them. However, road wheels for gravel are a bad idea – they're too narrow and too fragile.
The second standard, straight from MTB, is the 650b wheel, or 27.5-inch. This allows for the installation of larger tires, making the bike more agile and responsive. It's an ideal choice for those who want to blast through the woods. It also works well with very small frame sizes.
What wheels are for gravel? Tubeless!
I'll say it again: gravel and tubeless are a perfect pair. This allows you to ride at much lower pressures, which translates not only to comfort but also to stability, which translates to reduced rolling resistance. This isn't a track where you pump your tires up against a rock. Tubeless gravel wheels allow you to get the most out of your tires and bike. Plus, the sealant reduces the chance of a flat tire. Simple and effective!
Aluminum or carbon wheels for gravel?
It's a known fact that carbon is generally better. Much lighter, vibration-absorbing, and pro-looking. Carbon gravel wheels are also designed for heavy loads and can handle even heavy luggage. The problem is that they're expensive. Purchase and maintenance, which require a lot of expertise. This can be a problem on the road. And this isn't racing (unless it is) where you're fighting for grams. Good aluminum wheels will be much cheaper, and the difference isn't as noticeable in everyday use or on expeditions. If you're going for a laced set, it's better to invest that money in a decent aluminum rim and better spokes and hubs.
Remember to match your standards
New sizes, (double?) standards, and confusing naming conventions – gravel bikes are a real nightmare in this regard. Gravel wheels can be a real surprise, especially in terms of how they're attached to the frame. The most common is a 12x100mm front and 12x142mm rear thru-axle setup. However, there are exceptions, so make sure you choose the right setup. Older and cheaper ones, in particular, often have a traditional quick-release system.
The second issue is the brake rotors. Fortunately, there are only two options: six-bolt (IS) mounting, or Centerlock with a single nut. I prefer the latter for faster installation, but there are no operational differences. The key is that the rotors fit the hubs.
Gravel rear wheels also come with a variety of freehubs. These can usually be easily replaced, but the cost can be surprising. The most common are the Shimano road standard, universal for 9/10 speeds, or XD and SRAM XDR freehubs, which allow for the installation of 10t cassettes.
Is it better to lace gravel wheels or buy system wheels?
It depends largely on your requirements. System wheels are a quick and reliable solution – you can easily find all the information and reviews about them. With higher-end models, you can also count on unique features and design. On the other hand, gravel wheels built by a good wheelbuilder will be optimally suited to your needs. After all, some wheels are best for bikepacking and a larger cyclist, while others are suitable for commuting for a lighter rider.
Most often, it's a good idea to opt for butted spokes, which are lighter and, contrary to popular belief, more durable (except in extreme cases) than typical 2mm spokes. Sealed hubs with cartridge bearings are also a good choice. I'm a fan of DT Swiss, but affordable Novatecs also do the trick. We also recommend our branded gravel hubs . They're not overly fancy, but reliable. For lighter applications, 28 spokes are a safe number; if you want to load your bike up, 32 will be a safe bet.
And of course, you need a reputable workshop where experienced wheel builders have access to good truing stands, a tensometer, and a whole host of smaller but important tools. Come visit us! :)
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